Fall and Winter Pruning

The end of summer means the end of the gardening season for most, but smart folks will use this time to have some shrub and tree problems corrected.

Late fall and winter is a great time to prune. With leaves gone, it is easier for field arborists to see the structure of the tree and determine where corrective pruning is needed. The trees themselves are the greatest beneficiaries of fall and winter pruning. During the dormant season, insect and disease problems are much less likely to infect pruning wounds. This is the reason elms and oaks should be pruned only during the late fall and winter months. In addition frozen ground helps to minimize impact necessary equipment may have on surrounding landscape and lawns.

Corrective pruning means removing parts of the plant that aren't growing as we'd like. These may be branches that interfere with other branches, those that rub against a building or branches that overhang a walkway or roof. A certified arborist is skilled in examining the plant carefully to visualize how it will look after the pruning is finished.

We also recommend having dead or broken branches or those with heavy disease or insect infestations removed. The result will be a healthier plant.

Overgrown shrubs can also be successfully pruned during fall and winter. They should, however, be thinned rather than sheared at the top. Thinning will reduce the plant's size without affecting its overall shape.

Thinning is especially important for flowering shrubs. Some stalks or branches can be removed without significantly reducing spring flowering. Shrubs which flower in the spring and early summer, as well as flowering trees, have already formed their flowers for next year. These flowers are tightly encased in buds that are frequently near the end of the plant’s branches. Shearing such plants will reduce, if not destroy, next year's bloom. That's why only dead, dying or interfering branches should be removed at this time of year. To reduce height, cut some major canes completely without pruning the remainder of the plant. When pruning shrubs, no more than one third of the total canes should be removed, with focus on removing the oldest and woodiest.

Mature trees can be pruned now to make them more structurally sound and less prone to future storm damage. This is also the case for young trees where structural problems can often be prevented, and smaller pruning cuts close over more easily. Pruning trees when they are young will also lead to a better shaped, more aesthetically pleasing tree later on. Branches that form narrow V-shaped crotches are weaker than those with wide-angle crotches. We will advise removing branches with a narrow "V" union where possible. The cut should be made just outside the natural "collar." This "collar" usually is marked by wrinkles or a series of ridges in the bark near the branch union. Cuts should never be flush with the trunk nor stubs ever left.

If removal of a particular limb will destroy the shape of the tree, it can be left on the tree and have artificial support added, using static or dynamic cables. A properly installed support system will increase the load capacity of the supported union. If your situation involves major pruning or any cabling, it is a good idea to consult with your Rainbow Treecare ISA Certified Arborist.

Any pruning that cannot be easily reached from the ground should be only done by a professional. Rainbow Treecare employs some of the best professional tree climbers in the country, many of whom are ISA certified. These highly skilled individuals have the knowledge and equipment to safely and properly prune trees.

Contact your Rainbow Treecare office at 952-922-3810 to schedule a pruning appointment with your Consulting Arborist.

 

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